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A sulphurous smell up the value chain
Friday, 09, April 2010


I recently had the chance to travel to Tengger Semeru National Park, a volcanic complex in East Java (which I referred to in my last newsletter article) to trek around the Kawah Ijen volcano. After a long car journey and extremely dense traffic (especially in the mud volcano area) we finally reached our base camp and started our ascent.We finally reached the summit after hours of strenuous walking and we were rewarded by some spectacular views of the volcano’ large caldera and of its beautiful (but deadly toxic) 200-meter-deep lake of sulphuric acid.

And by some much more disturbing views. As we looked down the lake, we could spot local miners hacking chunks of yellow material with steel bars, with very minimal protection.Kawah Ijen is an active volcano which emits gases through fumaroles inside its crater. Stone and ceramic pipes cap the fumaroles, and inside, the sulphur condenses into a molten red liquid, dripping back down and solidifying into pure sulphur. We were effectively trekking in an “open sulphur mine”, on the path used by local miners on their way to and from the weighting station, several kilometres down in the valley.
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